Chapter One: Nomikai

Nomikai translates to “drinking gathering” and is the traditional first step to a night out. This first step usually includes food and more importantly, a casual gathering with friends. A personal favorite of mine and my acquaintance in Japan was table top grilled meats called Yakiniku. The dish was first introduced to me in a pursuit to find the origin of the smell of grilled onions and beef in the air. After days of raw fish, rice, curry, fried chicken, and fermented beans, nothing built an appetite like beef. On a busy street, full of neon signs, bars, and pop up stands selling sweets, a dark and deep
alleyway housed the restaurant we were looking for. I walk inside with Stan, a Welshman and Milos. A brief interaction happens between Milos who we depended on for translation, and a waiter. “I dont know what is happening guys, he said go to the fifth floor.”  It seemed impossible but it was true, the 10 foot wide and 15 foot long room we had walked into was an entire building with five floors to it. Despite the questionable architecture, we squeeze into the elevator and head up. The door opens and we are greeted with a quick and deep bow, our presence was welcomed and our expectations surpassed. We removed our shoes to not ruin the beautiful and shiny woven straw flooring and proceeded to sit down on the floor to reach the shin high table. We order our platters of beef, pork, and tongue. We’re reminded that it’s mandatory to order an alcoholic beverage, this practice was not isolated to this restaurant or this city and there's culturally no moral or religious qualms about alcohol. We do the right thing and order three beers to avoid being rude, unfortunately the highballs will have to wait. We watch and enjoy the river and growing

crowds from the window, Shortly after cuts of raw meat, our drinks, and a table top grill arrive. Methodically and excitedly we take turns between grilling, eating, and drinking all while formulating a plan for our nijikai.